Disaster Preparedness

Emergencies come in many forms, and they may require anything from a brief absence from your home to permanent evacuation. Each type of disaster requires different measures to keep your pets safe. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pets is to be prepared.

Step 1   Get a Rescue Alert Sticker
This easy-to-use sticker will let people know that pets are inside your home. Make sure it is visible to rescue workers, and that it includes 1) the types and number of pets in your household; 2) the name of your veterinarian; and 3) your veterinarian's phone number. If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write "EVACUATED" across the stickers.

To get a free emergency pet alert sticker for your home, please fill out our online order form ; please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery. Your local pet supply store may also sell similar stickers.

Step 2   Arrange a Safe Haven
Arrange a safe haven for your pets in the event of evacuation. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND. Remember, if it isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. They may become trapped or escape and be exposed to numerous life-threatening hazards. Note that not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so it is imperative that you have determined where you will bring your pets ahead of time:

• Contact your veterinarian for a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities.
• Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets.
• Identify hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets.
• Ask friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to take in your pet.

Step 3   Emergency Supplies and Traveling Kits
Keep an Evac-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:

• Pet first-aid kit and guide book (ask your vet what to include, or visit the ASPCA Store to buy one online)
• 3-7 days' worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two months)
• Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)
• Litter or paper toweling
• Liquid dish soap and disinfectant
• Disposable garbage bags for clean-up
• Pet feeding dishes
• Extra collar or harness as well as an extra leash
• Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
• Bottled water, at least 7 days' worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry place and replace every two months)
• A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet
• Flashlight
• Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)
• Recent photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make "Lost" posters)
• Especially for cats: Pillowcase or EvackSack, toys, scoopable litter
• Especially for dogs: Extra leash, toys and chew toys, a week's worth of cage liner.

You should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Items to include: Batteries, duct tape, flashlight, radio, multi-tool, tarp, rope, permanent marker, spray paint, baby wipes, protective clothing and footwear, extra cash, rescue whistle, important phone numbers, extra medication and copies of medical and insurance information.

Step 4   Choose “Designated Caregivers”
This step will take considerable time and thought. When choosing a temporary caregiver, consider someone who lives close to your residence. He or she should be someone who is generally home during the day while you are at work or has easy access to your home. A set of keys should be given to this trusted individual.
This may work well with neighbors who have pets of their own—you may even swap responsibilities, depending upon who has accessibility.

When selecting a permanent caregiver, you’ll need to consider other criteria. This is a person to whom you are entrusting the care of your pet in the event that something should happen to you. When selecting this "foster parent," consider people who have met your pet and have successfully cared for animals in the past.
Be sure to discuss your expectations at length with a permanent caregiver, so he or she understands the responsibility of caring for your pet.

Step 5  Evacuation Preparation
If you must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario. If you think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. To minimize evacuation time, take these simple steps:

• Store an emergency kit and leashes as close to an exit as possible.
• Make sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification. Your pet's ID tag should contain his name, telephone number, and any urgent medical needs. Be sure to write your pet's name, your name and contact information on your pet's carrier.
• The ASPCA recommends microchipping your pet as a more permanent form of identification. A microchip is implanted in the animal's shoulder area, and can be read by scanner at most animal shelters.
• Always bring pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets can become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis.
• Consider your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your pet outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster.

Step 6  Geographic and Climatic Considerations
Do you live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as tornadoes, earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.

• Determine well in advance which rooms offer safe havens. These rooms should be clear of hazards such as windows, flying debris, etc.
• Choose easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe zones.
• Access to a supply of fresh water is particularly important. In areas that may lose electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have access to water during a power outage or other crises.
• In the event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter.

If emergency officials recommend that you stay in your home, it's crucial that you keep your pets with you. Keep your Evac-Pack and supplies close at hand. Your pets may become stressed during the in-house confinement, so you may consider crating them for safety and comfort.

Special Considerations for Birds

• Birds should be transported in a secure travel cage or carrier.
• In cold weather, make certain you have a blanket over your pet’s cage. This may also help reduce the stress of traveling.
• In warm weather, carry a spray bottle to periodically moisten your bird's feathers.
• Have recent photos available, and keep your bird’s leg bands on for identification.
• If the carrier does not have a perch, line it with paper towels that you can change frequently.
• Keep the carrier in as quiet an area as possible.
• It is particularly imperative that birds eat on a daily basis, so purchase a timed feeder. If you need to leave your bird unexpectedly, the feeder will ensure his daily feeding schedule.
• Items to keep on hand: Catch net, heavy towel, blanket or sheet to cover cage, cage liner.

Special Considerations for Reptiles

• A snake may be transported in a pillowcase, but you should have permanent and secure housing for him when you reach a safe place.
• Take a sturdy bowl that is large for your pet to soak in. It’s also a good idea to bring along a heating pad or other warming device, such as a hot water bottle.
• Lizards can be transported like birds (see above).

Special Considerations for Small Animals

• Small animals, such as hamsters, gerbils, mice and guinea pigs, should be transported in secure carriers with bedding materials, food and food bowls.
• Items to keep on hand: Salt lick, extra water bottle, small hidebox or tube, a week's worth of bedding.

Originally published by the ASPCA.

Avoiding Injury: Interpreting Feline Aggression

Despite centuries of sharing our lives and homes with cats, many pet owners know very little about interpreting signs of anger, fear or aggression in these creatures. The typical “Halloween cat” posture (arched back, raised fur, ears back, hissing) clearly indicates fear and/or aggression, but cats also use other postures and behaviors that are subtle and easily missed. Since a hostile encounter with a cat at some time is almost inevitable, a few tips can help you avoid injury if you find yourself in such a situation.

What are the Signs of Aggression in Cats?

Fortunately, most cats exhibit some sort of outward sign when they are unhappy or angry about something. Unfortunately, some of these signs can be very subtle and difficult to interpret, including:

• Avoiding eye contact, or staring directly at you
• Dilated pupils
• Head held down
• Sharply swishing the tail back and forth
• Raised fur along the neck, back and tail
• Puffing up the tail
• Ears flattened against head or held back
• Hissing, growling

In some cases, the signs of trouble may occur very suddenly and without apparent warning. For example, petting-evoked aggression occurs when you are petting a cat (usually while the cat is on your lap) and the cat seems to be enjoying the interaction, but then suddenly strikes out at or bites you. The most logical explanation for this behavior is that some cats have a limited tolerance for being petted, so the best way to avoid this problem is to stop petting before that limit is reached. Unfortunately, the signs preceding the strike or bite may be very subtle—flicking the tail or ear may be the only indication of a problem. Understanding what those behaviors mean may save you from being injured.

What To Do

• When in doubt, create distance. If the cat is trying to get away from you, let it—as long as you can do this safely. If you are pursuing or restraining the cat in any way, stop. If a cat is fearful or aggressive, its natural response is usually to get away from you. As long as it can do that, the situation may not progress any further. Always leave a cat a way to escape a situation. Generally, if the cat can get away, it is less likely to attack or become more aggressive.
• Keep your movements slow and your voice soft. The cat is faster than you. Sudden movements or loud noises (like shouting) will startle a cat that is already afraid or annoy a cat that is already irritated.
• Consult your veterinarian. Painful conditions, hormonal influences or other medical issues may cause your cat to be aggressive. Relieving these problems may help eliminate the behavior.
• Try to learn what the cat likes or doesn’t like. Some cats like to be picked up and held, but others absolutely refuse to accept this. This can seem contradictory when the same cat that doesn’t want to be picked up wants to be in your lap if you are sitting down. Often, interacting with cats involves negotiation—if picking up the cat is not going to work, don’t do it.
• Educate children. Without meaning to, children can be rough with cats or display other behaviors that may cause a cat to become fearful or aggressive toward them. Some children need to be shown how to play gently with a cat. Very young children may also pursue or restrain a cat that is trying to get away from them or pick up a cat that resents being picked up. These activities should be discouraged.
• Introduce new pets slowly and under controlled situations. If your cat is meeting another animal (whether a dog or another cat), try to have at least one of them on a leash. If a fight breaks out, the combatants can be pulled apart without having to reach into the fight to separate them. Also, don’t be surprised if it takes your cat a long time to accept a new pet. As long as the two pets can get away from one another and don’t have to compete for food or affection, fights can generally be avoided.

What Not to Do

• Never pursue a cat that is trying to get away from you. It is already frightened; don't make it feel threatened.
• Don’t approach strange cats. If you must interact with them, let them approach you. If the cat is injured or in pain, it may be more likely to be aggressive, so if you have to pick the cat up to help it, use a towel or other means to protect yourself.
• Don’t underestimate a cat’s ability to hurt you. Yes, cats are small, but don’t think that their small size means they are not dangerous. Even a kitten can seriously injure you. Cats are blessed with incredible speed and flexibility. Unless they are declawed, all four feet are weapons, as is a mouth full of sharp teeth. Cat scratches and bites can transmit bacteria that lead to cat scratch fever, a disease with flu-like symptoms. Cat bites can also result in infection and severe tissue swelling. Always use caution when dealing with a cat you don’t know, even if the cat belongs to a friend or relative. 

This article originally appeared in PetsMatter November / December, published by the American Animal Hospital Association. Copyright © 2012 AAHA.

Allergies

It is that time of year again when everyone is itchy! Allergies are very common in dogs and can be one of the most frustrating medical problems. Typically dogs have a  primary allergy problem and the infections are secondary to the allergies. Allergy skin is not “normal” skin. It is inflamed and therefore does not provide the typical protective barrier. This makes pets with allergies predisposed to skin infections with bacteria or yeast. The skin can appear red and itchy or can develop crusted, circular lesions. This is not typically contagious to people or other pets. It is simply a bacteria or yeast that lives on the skin normally, but because his skin is inflamed from the allergies it is susceptible to infection.  

Allergies come in 3 main types:

1.      Environment

2.      Food

3.      Parasites

We can only control food and parasites to some degree. Food allergies can be controlled with special novel protein or hypoallergenic diets such as the Hills d/d venison and potato diet or z/d. These diets need to be exclusive and no other foods should be fed. This means no biscuits, bones, tablefood or even the chewable heartgard. This should be done for a minimum of 12 weeks and if they are responding it should be continued for life. The food comes in dry and canned. The canned food can be frozen and used as a bones or baked in the oven to use as a biscuit.

Parasites can be controlled by using frontline every 3-4 weeks. This needs to be done all year round. This is because many pets have severe flea allergies. One flea bite can cause a severe allergic reaction and secondary infection

Environmental allergens cannot be cured, only controlled or managed. Ways to control environmental allergens are with oral anti-histamines such as chlorphenirimine, hydroxyzine, diphenhydramine (Benadryl) and bathing with anti-bacterial or anti-itch shampoos. This helps to reduce the allergic reaction, wash allergens from the skin and reduce the number of bacteria on the skin.  Some pets require lifelong low doses of steroids or atopica because nothing else helps.

Essential fatty acids such as derm caps or EFA caps can help to reduce itchiness and make the antihistamines more effective. We recommend a product called derm caps or EFA caps.

On top of this pets can still have allergic “flare ups” with secondary skin infections.  When this happens antibiotics and steroids are often necessary.

The goal is to cure the infection, then manage the itchiness.

The alternative to all of this is to go to a veterinary dermatologist. The dermatologist will recommend all of the above plus skin testing to determine environmental allergens. Once the allergens are determined desensitization injections can be started which will help to develop immunity and hopefully decrease the allergic reactions. This usually takes 6 months to become effective and is usually 70% effective. Some pets do not respond at all. The cost can be somewhere around $800 for testing and start of treatment.

The last thing that could cause skin disease is an underlying systemic illness such as hypothyroidism, cushings disease or even cancer. It is important to rule these out with bloodwork and a complete exam.

Once the skin treatment begins it is so important that your pet is rechecked 10 days later to be sure that the infection resolves 100%. Many pets are on antibiotics for 4 weeks or longer. The skin infection needs to be treated 1 week past resolution of signs. Then the aim is more towards reducing itchiness and keeping the skin clean to prevent future infections.

If you notice your pet itching its body, licking its feet or has dry or red lesions on the skin  or in the ears please call an make an appointment.

10 “People” Foods for Dogs

At Princeton Animal Hospital, we believe that there is a lot of misinformation out there about the kinds of food that are safe or unsafe for our pets to consume. We thought this article was an interesting read and offered some insight into the kinds of food that a dog can safely consume. Please contact our practice if you have any additional questions about your pet's diet and nutrition. Thank you!

As a responsible and informed dog lover, you probably know that too much “people food” can make your dog ill or overweight, but there are some human foods that can be safely added to your dog’s meals in moderation to give a nutritional boost to Queenie’s diet and add a bit of variety to her food bowl. Just remember: any additions to your dog’s meals shouldn’t comprise more than 25 percent of her weekly caloric requirement.

1. Yogurt is a good source of available calcium and protein. When choosing yogurt, pick one that has live active bacteria and no sugars or artificial sweeteners. The active bacteria may act as probiotics. If your pooch is pudgy, make sure that you pick fat-free yogurt but not one that contains fat substitutes (e.g., Simplesse or Olestra). Frozen yogurt is a nice summer treat for dogs.

2. Flax seed (ground or oil) is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are essential fatty acids that are good for skin and coat. Whole flax seeds are best if ground right before feeding as this type of fat can go rancid quickly. Flax seed can also be added to your dog’s diet as a source of fibre. Flax oil is a more concentrated form of omega- 3 fatty acids without the fibre. Make sure that you store the oil or seeds in the fridge in an air tight dark container.

3. Salmon is a fatty fish which is also a good source of omega- 3 fatty acids. These fats support the immune system and can be beneficial for skin and coat health. There has also been some indication that they may benefit dogs with allergies. You can feed salmon or salmon oil. If feeding salmon, make sure it’s cooked before serving, as raw salmon can carry a parasite that can make your dog sick.

4. Pumpkin is a good source of fibre and beta carotene (a source of vitamin A). Dogs need fibre in their diet. The current trend is towards highly digestible diets that lower stool volume and this is not necessarily a good thing. Keeping the GI tract moving helps keep the cells lining the gut healthy.

5. Sweet potatoes are another source of dietary fibre and contain vitamin B6, vitamin C, beta carotene, and manganese. Sweet potatoes are great sliced and dehydrated as a chewy treat for your dog. There are so many dog treats on the market that we often overlook the simple, healthy, and reasonably priced treats available at our grocery store.

6. Green beans are a good source of plant fibre, vitamin K, vitamin C, and manganese. If your dog has a tendency to put on weight, then replacing some of her regular food with green beans is a great low calorie way to fill her up and help her maintain a healthy weight. Many dogs enjoy green beans frozen.

7. Eggs are a great source of very digestible protein, riboflavin, and selenium. For some dogs that are prone to digestive upset, eggs can give them a little protein boost. Adding eggs to your dog’s food is a healthy treat. Make sure to use cooked whole egg, as raw egg whites can cause biotin deficiency. If you do a lot of training with your dog, consider taking cooked eggs to your next class as training treats.

8. Brewer’s yeast is the yeast that’s left over from making alcohol. Dogs seem to really enjoy the tangy taste of brewer’s yeast. It’s full of B vitamins which are good for skin, coat, and carbohydrate metabolism. Make sure you’re using brewer’s yeast (available at health food stores), not baking yeast which will make your dog sick. Brewer’s yeast can spice up your dog’s appetite. Just sprinkle a little on the food of a picky eater and watch her dive into her food.

9. Apples are wonderful crunchy treats for your dog. Apples with the skin on are full of plant chemicals (phytonutrients) that are thought to be protective against some types of cancer in humans. They are a source of vitamins A and C and fibre. Apple seeds, however, contain cyanide so your dog should not be allowed to eat the core. Though the effects of a few apple seeds will likely not harm your dog, the deleterious effects can accumulate over time if allowed to eat apple seeds regularly.

10. Oatmeal is a good source of soluble fibre. This can be beneficial for some older dogs that may have trouble maintaining bowel regularity. Oatmeal is also an alternative source of grain for dogs that are allergic to wheat. It can be fed in conjunction with probiotics to enhance their function. Keep in mind oatmeal should always be fed cooked and plain with no sugar or flavouring. As always, check with your veterinarian before making any major changes to your dog’s diet, especially if they are on any medications. Upsetting the vitamin and mineral balances in your dog’s diet can have negative effects on your dog’s health and some medications interact badly with some nutrients. The aim of most dog owners is to give their dogs the best diet possible. Good nutrition coupled with a health care program may result in extending your dog’s life by as much as 15 percent. The suggestions above are not meant to replace your dog’s normal, balanced diet. Rather, they are ideas for alternative treats or for adding a little variety to your dog’s meals.

Originally published in Modern Dog Magazine.

ASPCA Winter Cat Care and Safety Tips

When the weather outside turns cold and snowy, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) reminds you to think about your pet's safety and recommends the following winter care tips to protect your companion animal:

1. Keep your cats inside. Outdoor cats can freeze, or become lost or stolen, injured or killed.

2. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes sleep under car hoods for warmth. Before starting your car, bang loudly on the hood and wait a few seconds to give the cat a chance to escape.

3. Antifreeze, even in tiny doses, is a lethal poison for cats. Unfortunately, its sweet taste attracts animals to it. Thoroughly clean up spills from your vehicle. To prevent accidental poisoning, more and more people are using animal-friendly products that contain propylene glycol rather than traditional products containing ethylene glycol. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-4ANI-HELP) if you suspect your animal has been poisoned.

4. Never leave your pet alone in a car during the cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold. Your companion animal could freeze to death.

5. Make sure your pet has a warm place to sleep far away from drafts and off the floor. Consider a cat bed or basket with a warm blanket or pillow in it.


Originally published by the Cat Channel.